Meyer Lemon Roasted Beet Salad

To me, beets are the ultimate autumn vegetable. Their sweet earthiness is supreme comfort. I love them roasted with garlic, or boiled and served with butter and cumin, or blood oranges. They are lovely in a breakfast hash with bacon, or raw, grated in salads.

Beets are incredibly healthy, which makes sense intuitively, since their deep color is so similar in appearance to our blood. Since Roman times, beet juice has been considered an aphrodisiac. It is a rich source of the mineral boron, which plays an important role in the production of human sex hormones. From the Middle Ages, beets were used as a treatment for a variety of conditions, especially illnesses relating to digestion and the blood. The greens bring an additional set of nutrients to the plate, most notably beta-carotene, vitamin C, iron and calcium, and are delicious steamed and served with butter.

RECIPE:
serves 12
2 lbs red beets
2 lbs golden beets
salt, pepper
2 meyer lemons, zested and juiced.
3 tbsps sherry
1/4 cup olive oil
6 endive
1/2 lb baby arugula or watercress
fresh chives
dried tarragon
1 cup toasted walnuts
goat cheese or blue cheese- 1 cup or so, crumbled

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut the greens away from the beets, leaving about 1/4 inch of stems. Scrub the beets, dry them, and then rub them in olive oil, salt and pepper and lemon zest. Then place them in the middle of a large sheet of tin foil and close to make a pocket. Place on cookie sheet and bake for about an hour or until tender to a fork. When done, remove skins and chop the beets.

Make the dressing, by whisking together the sherry, lemon juice, olive oil, tarragon and chives.

Pour the dressing over the beets and mix well. Add the chopped endive and arugula or watercress and mix again, gently. Add the nuts and cheese and some fresh ground pepper, and enjoy.

The beets can be roasted a day or two before using, also the nuts can be roasted before hand. Even the dressing could be made a day ahead if you were really trying to be efficient.

Cauliflower Soup with White Truffle Oil

Thanksgiving requires a bit of strategy-- I didn't always know this. My goal used to be to create as enormous an extravaganza of indulgence as I could. I imagined a giant medieval feast with everyone ending up stuffed to unconsciousness and used that as my model- men waving turkey legs in the air with drops of gravy clinging to their beards, pigs roasting on spits, the air thick with smoke and the aroma of curing meat, children chasing dogs around the table with bits of stuffing mashed into their hair and cranberry sauce all over their faces, belching women with abundant cleavage, butter and truffles, rich burnt sugar and rotting leaves....

Anyway, that vision still holds a place in my heart, and I reference it occasionally, but I've learned that in order for people to feel completely satisfied at the end of the meal, it has to be gently guided- I imagine the meal as a bell shape with the entree as this big crescendo that you have to build up to. People have to start off slowly, or they won't properly appreciate the experience- it takes a minute for people to even realize they're eating, so don't waste all your efforts on the first dish, but you do want people to be intrigued about what's to come- it's a fine line.

There have been thanksgivings where I slaved over the desserts- but people were too overwhelmed at the end to appreciate them. Similarly, I've made the mistake of serving huge cheese platters and deviled eggs as appetizers and filled people up before they even saw the turkey. Here are some tricks I've learned (I think they generally apply to relationships as well).

First, people will eat pretty much whatever you put in front of them- it's up to you to decide how much energy you want to put into cooking- don't overextend yourself or you won't have fun. Second, always leave people a little hungry for more- even at the end- leave space for the gods as they say.
Thirdly, people can only focus on one or two things at once- so keep a focus to your meal and to each dish.

I always start Thanksgiving with soup- usually a pureed soup- not a big bowl- just a small bit, and not too heavy- not tons of nuts, or meat, maybe just a little cream. Simple flavors- with maybe a small, delicate little twist.

Here is a good one to start.....

CAULIFLOWER SOUP RECIPE:

Serves 12- disciplined, non-gluttonous people

10 cloves garlic, sliced
1 few tablespoons ghee or olive oil
3 heads of cauliflower (about 4 lbs)
2 quarts vegetable broth
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1/4 cup cream
1/2 tsp nutmeg
chives to garnish
salt and lots of black pepper
few tbsps white truffle oil

optional other garnishes- goat cheese, fried garlic slices, toasted almonds...

Cut the cauliflower into florets and bring to a boil in a large pot with the stock. Cover, reduce heat and simmer for a while- about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a tbsp of ghee in a pan and pan-roast the garlic until brown (careful not to burn)

Add the cream and creme fraiche, garlic, nutmeg and spices.

Puree and serve hot with chives and a drizzling of truffle oil

If you warm the bowls ahead of time the soup will be hotter.....you can make this the day before and just heat it up the day of......enjoy

Mashed Potatoes and Celery Root with Crispy Leeks

This is the first of a few Thanksgiving recipes that I will post, so you can begin thinking about the feast ahead (oooooo it's so exciting!)




What makes this recipe so unique is the use of ghee instead of butter. Ghee is easier to digest than butter because it has no lactose in it, which means that the butter-belly syndrome typical of thanksgiving will be minimized. And it's just so delicious! Here the tartness of the creme fraiche balance its rich sweetness.

I leave the skin on my mashed potatoes because it's nutritious, and I think delicious, but you're more than welcome to peel the potatoes if you'd prefer.

Celery root is that odd hairy looking lump you'll see in the produce section- it looks like the most unappetizing thing ever, but it's really quite delicious, and the crisp vibrancy lends itself well to the creaminess of the potatoes.

The type of potatoes you use matters! Some are more flaky and dry, others have thicker skins. The best for mashing are russets and Yukon gold.


RECIPE:

3 Celery roots
4 lbs potatoes
1 tbsp salt
5 tbsps ghee
1/3 cup creme fraiche
1/4 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup minced chives or parsley
black pepper
2 leeks
several tbsps safflower oil or ghee for frying

Peel the celery root- making sure to remove all the fibrous parts. Cut the potatoes and the celery into 1 inch pieces. Bring to a boil in a large pot of water. Add salt and cook until the vegetables are soft (about 10 min).

Meanwhile, chop the leeks into 2 inch logs- then chop lengthwise- creating thin strips. Heat the oil in a small pan. Add the leeks and fry less than a minute until golden. Use a fork or slotted spoon and drain the leeks on paper towels.

Drain the soft, cooked vegetables. In a large bowl (or in the same pot), mash the vegetables with a fork or masher. Add the ghee, creme fraiche. Mash thoroughly. Add the cream only if you'd like the potatoes a little creamier. Add salt, herbs and fresh ground pepper to taste- mix thoroughly.

Top with the crispy leeks.

Chai for sipping.....

At this time of year, I'm almost always in the mood for a warm glass of chai. A pot of chai on the stove seems to completely balance a rainy day. As much as I love chai, I never buy it at cafes because it's rarely homemade- and therefore usually way too sweet. Chai is made a million different ways, so experiment and find the way you like best. Personally, I like my chai really spicy and with lots of cardamom. I also like to add a touch of butter to the top.

Something I don't like about most Chai is that cinnamon dominates all the other flavors. I think Americans use too much cinnamon in general. I once worked with a German pastry chef who called all American pies "Cinnamon pies", because that's all she said she could taste. While cinnamon can be divine in the right amounts and in the right places, you have to be discerning with its use, especially if what you're using isn't actually cinnamon, but cassia bark instead.
Most people are not aware that there are two types of cinnamon, and what is generally labeled "cinnamon" is actually Cassia bark- which is a completely different tree and isn't nearly as good (or as good for you). True cinnamon is often labeled Ceylon cinnamon- the bark is thinner, more crumbly, and has a much more complex and gentle flavor. It aids in digestion by calming the stomach, fighting bacteria and fungus. I always buy it in Mexican markets, but I'm sure you can find it other places as well.
The type of tea used to make chai is important as well. Traditionally Darjeeling tea is used, but Assam tea would work well too. What's most important is that the quality of the tea is good. Look for a 'first flush' darjeeling, and make sure it is fresh.

In Kashmir, chai is known as Kahwah, and is made with green tea and no milk. It doesn't use any of the intense spices like black pepper or cinnamon and therefore has a more gentle taste- I think of it as chai's sweet little sister. The history of chai is very much connected to Ayurveda, the science of India that dates back five thousand years. Traditionally each family would have their own recipe of herbs and spices that was based on available ingredients and the constitutions of family members. Typically this is a highly potent blend that has a myriad of medicinal and health promoting properties. Consuming chai regularly increases the digestive fire, elevates metabolism, and aids the elimination of waste and toxins. The warm spices counter-act the cold, kapha-inducing weather. Enjoy.

MASALA CHAI:

-makes enough for two people to enjoy (or one person for a whole afternoon)

6 cardamom pods
1 tbsp crumbled cinnamon bark
2 whole cloves
1 tsp. chopped fresh ginger
6 black pepper corns
2 heaping teaspoons Darjeeling tea
1 cup water
1 cup whole milk (it's good with coconut milk or other milks as well)
touch of butter
pinch of salt
rapadura sugar or honey to taste

Lightly crush all the spices in a mortar to release their fragrance. Add the spices to a the water in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for a few minutes. Then add the milk and heat again- but don't let it boil. Turn off the heat, add the tea and let steep for about 3 minutes.

Add sweetener, butter and salt to taste.

KAHWAH (the sweet little sister) :

4 cardamom pods (pounded slightly to release fragrance)
a pinch of saffron
1 tbsp rose buds
2 cups water
2 heaping teaspoons of gunpowder green tea
a touch of honey if you'd like

In a saucepan combine the spices and water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer for a few minutes. Add the tea and turn off the heat- letting it steep for 2 minutes or so before straining the tea into cups.

This tea also traditionally is served with a few finely chopped almonds on top.

Snow Moon Chutneys

It's the full moon. Last night, the glorious orb rising in the sky was so large it almost seemed like an intruding guest on the horizon- its reflection shimmering across the bay. In the agrarian year, there are thirteen lunar cycles. Most of the cultures of the world have names for each of the moons. These names vary depending on the culture- so for instance, many of the native tribes of the pacific northwest have moon names that refer to salmon, while agriculturalists of the Southwest have many moon names that refer to corn.

In her book, Full Moon Feast, Jessica Prentice explores each moon cycle. The moon that we are entering now was called the Snow Moon in sixteenth-century England. It was the time when the first snows began to fall- when people were gathering there last stores of food for winter and preserving the last of the harvest.

Almost every culture around the world has a traditionally "cultured" food- which is how people preserved food before modern canning and refrigeration. Much of the world depends on lacto-fermented vegetables to help the body digest the meat-heavy diet of winter, when fresh fruits and vegetables are scarce. These foods such as kimchi and sauerkraut were traditionally made with whey, which allows a slow careful decay- by introducing micro-organisms that our bodies need. With the introduction of pasteurization, people became obsessed with "sanitized" food. Food began to be cooked at high temperatures, killing all of the helpful bacteria, leaving our bodies susceptible to viruses and harmful bacteria. The lactobacilli in traditionally fermented vegetables and fruits enhance their digestibility, increasing their vitamin levels and restoring the healthy partnership between our bodies and the billions of microscopic organisms which we need to stay healthy*

To make the whey for these recipes, simply put a quart or so of live, organic, whole-milk yogurt in a colander lined with cheesecloth. Let it sit over night in a bowl. The liquid that drains out is whey- in the cheesecloth is yogurt cheese- which you can use like cream cheese- it's delicious!

Here are two recipes for chutneys. One is lacto-fermented, the other is cooked. You could make the persimmon chutney in the same way the cranberry chutney was made- I just wanted to present two styles. They would both be delicious with turkey, so you can start some of your Thanksgiving cooking now! The persimmon chutney I made with Fuyu persimmons because I have such a surplus, but you could also make with Hachiyas- it would be more jam like.













Make sure to use organic cranberries, yes they're much more expensive, but it's worth it. Cranberries are grown in big bogs, which means that conventional cranberries are sprayed with pesticides by saturating the entire bog in toxic chemicals. As Dan Wandler, a cranberry farmer in Wisconsin says of the difference between organic and conventional,

"After we used to spray the bog, you didn't hear a sound for two weeks. You knew you'd killed something. Now the bog is full of sound. There are beneficial insects, and that means the frogs have something to eat."

ORANGE CRANBERRY CHUTNEY:
1 1/2 pounds fresh cranberries coarsely chopped in food processor.
1/2 cup filtered water
grated rind of two oranges
juice of two lemons
1/2 cup dark raisins
1 bosc pear- diced
1 red onion- chopped
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cloves
1/2 tsp cardamom
1 tbsp. brown mustard seeds
1-1/2 cup sucanat
2 teaspoons sea salt
1/4 cup whey

Mix the water, lemon juice, sucanat, salt and whey. Add the cranberries, pear, and raisins and spices and mix well. Press the mixture into quart, wide-mouthed jars. Press the mixture down, adding more water if necessary to cover the fruit. Cover tightly and keep at room temperature for 2-3 days before transferring to the fridge. It will keep for 2 months in the fridge.

" Spice a dish with love and it pleases every palate" - Plautus, Casina, 200 B.C.


PERSIMMON LIME CHUTNEY:

6 large ripe persimmons
1 small onion chopped
1 jalapeño chili chopped
1 tsp. celery seeds
1/2 cup dates, chopped
Grated zest of 1 lime
1 tsp. chopped fresh ginger
1/4 cup chopped candied ginger
1/3 cup sucanat (or other unprocessed sugar)
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
Juice of 2 lemons
Juice of 1 lime

Combine all ingredients, except persimmons in a pot- bring to a boil and simmer for at least a half an hour. Add peeled persimmons and boil slowly until it thickens- about 20 minutes more. Pour into hot sterilized jars. Makes about a pint.

*If you're interested in making sauerkraut, kimchi, or other lacto-fermented foods you can look at Nourishing Traditions by Sally Fallon.

Persimmon and Pomegrante Salad

Yesterday, I needed to quickly come up with a dish for a food-ecology event I was co-hosting. One of my favorite challenges is the "see what you can make with only what you have" game; this is what I came up with.
I went out to the garden and picked a big basket full of pink lady apples and persimmons. I had gotten a beautiful savoy cabbage from my friend Suchi and a few pomegranates from my friend David's tree.
Fuyu persimmons are the non-astringent variety- they are hard when you pick them and only soften a little- they are not mushy like Hachiya (or Hayachi, as I called them until a few days ago when my friend (and teacher) Tamar made fun of me). It is believed that persimmons picked on the night of a full moon have many more of the small dark brown speckles in them, and those speckles make the persimmons sweeter.
RECIPE:

3 fuyu persimmons- bright orange, slightly soft
1 pomegranate
2 green apples or pink-fleshed apples, chopped into small pieces
1/2 head of Savoy or Napa cabbage thinly sliced
1 lemon
olive oil
salt and pepper
3/4 cup sunflower seeds.

I simply chopped everything, meanwhile toasting the sunflower seeds in a pan on the stove (shaking regularly to make sure they didn't burn)- then I mixed the seeds in with the fruit and the cabbage, and mixed in the lemon juice and olive oil, and sprinkled the pomegranate seeds on top. The colors were beautiful.


You might also try this with mayonnaise-although the colors might not be as brilliant, or also with toasted walnuts or pepitas instead of the sunflower seeds. Also, some very small pieces of red onion might be nice. Enjoy.

Bagels for Obama

For the first time in my life, I'm proud to be an American...
For the first time in my life, I understand democracy...
For the first time in my life, I'm not planning my escape from the US!

Something very deep in our consciousness has shifted, and I am so grateful.

I remember last spring at the farmer's market, I saw a little boy- probably less than 8 years old, pulling a red wagon filled with apricots that were obviously from his tree. I was instantly reminded my adventures selling things as a kid- little bouquets of flowers, fresh-picked loganberries etc.- my brother and I were always trying to make as much money as possible, selling whatever we could. The sign hanging from the side of the little boy's wagon said "Apricots for Obama". I asked him how much they were, and he said, "As much as you want to give."

So, I thought about a recipe that would honor Obama, and I thought, 'Bagels!'- because of the "O", of course, but also because growing up in Arcata, we went to 'Los Bagels', the Jewish-Mexican bakery in Arcata, almost daily. They make delicious bagels, knishes, and pan muerto during Dia de los Muertos. The ingeniousness of Los Bagels is that they have combined two, seemingly-unrelated cultures, creating a synergistic explosion of bagels and empanadas- something I would like to think might only happen in the U.S.

And, like other ring-shaped objects, bagels are said to bring good luck and possess magical powers!


RECIPE:

- 2 cups warm water
- 2 (1/4-ounce) packets active dry yeast or 2 cakes of fresh yeast
- 3 tablespoons sugar
- 5 to 6 cups white, unbleached, organic flour
- 2 teaspoons sea salt
-2 teaspoons vegetable oil
-2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal

toppings: sesame seeds, poppy seeds, garlic, sea salt etc.

Combine the water, yeast, and sugar and let stand until it gets foamy on top
(about 5 minutes). Slowly add 4 cups of flour and salt. Begin mixing with a spoon. Add another cup or so of flour- working with your hands to mix the dough.

Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and no longer sticky, about 5 minutes, adding just as much flour as needed. (Dough should be heavier and stiffer than regular yeast bread dough.)

Grease a large bowl with 1 teaspoon of the oil. Place the dough in the bowl, turning to coat. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free spot until almost doubled, about 1 hour.

Remove from the bowl and punch down the dough. Divide into 12 equal parts and form each piece of dough into a ball. Roll each ball into a snake on the counter. When the snake is longer than the width of your two hands, wrap it around your dominant rolling hand. The dough rope should be wrapped so the overlapping ends are together at your palm, near the start of your fingers. Now take the two overlapping ends, and use your palm to squish these two ends together.

Let the shaped bagels rest for about 20 minutes on the counter. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.

Grease a baking sheet with the remaining teaspoon of oil.

Fill a large, heavy pot with water and a little sugar (maybe a tablespoon or so). Bring to a boil. In batches, add the bagels to the water and boil, turning, for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Flip bagels onto the prepared sheet pan.

If you want to add toppings- spread the topping out on a plate- and lay the boiled bagel face down. Then place on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes, turn over and cook for another 10-15 minutes or until golden or when tapped on the bottom, the bagels sound hollow.

Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack.

A Note on Yeast:

The word "yeast" comes from the Sanskrit 'yas' meaning "to seethe or boil". Yeast is a member of the fungus family and is a single-celled fungi of which there are about 160 different species. The carbon dioxide it produces is the result of the yeast feeding on the dough and is responsible for bread rising.

Most people are familiar with using dry yeast- the granulated packet kind. But fresh yeast, which is sold in paste form is used in most of the world and is much more flavorful- and reminds you that you're dealing with a living creature (not a packaged product- if you do use dry yeast, always check the expiration date).

Fresh yeast is ivory colored with a yellowish hue and is soft and moist and should easily crumble. Make sure it is fresh smelling and there are no dark or dried places on the yeast. It is highly perishable and must be used within a short time of opening (or you can freeze it to make it last longer).

The French Girls' Caramel Corn

I made this last night for a Dia de los Muertos party that I went to with my dear, dessert-loving friend Juliet.
I made a variation of a recipe that is in The Super Natural Cookbook by Heidi Swanson. This recipe is quite easy but you have to be on your toes- the popcorn can easily burn as well as the caramel-sugar mixture. Be prepared to 'shake, shake shake, shake yo'...just kidding. Anyway-

If you feel so inclined you can make it into popcorn balls, by coating your hands in ghee or butter and shaping the caramel corn while it is still hot.

RECIPE:

1 tbsp ghee
1/2 cup popcorn unpopped
1/2 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup molasseses
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp nutmeg
1 tsp cardamom
1 tsp sea salt
3/4 cup chopped almonds
1/4 cup black sesame seeds

Heat the ghee in a large, heavy bottomed pan over high heat. Add the popcorn and begin shaking- until it begins popping- keep shaking, don't stop shaking or the popcorn will burn. Just keep shaking- until you stop hearing the pop. Then remove from the heat and take off the lid and pour into a bowl leaving the un-popped kernels at the bottom.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In the same pot mix together the remaining ingredients minus the nuts. Heat over medium heat- swirling the pot around to stir. When it begins to bubble all over, turn off the heat, and stir in the nuts and seeds and popcorn and mix well, until the popcorn is entirely coated. Turn onto the baking sheet and let cool.