Artichokes!

In writing an essay on artichokes for my herbalism program recently, I reaffirmed my eternal love affair with this glorious vegetable. I really think they're the best part of spring (only potentially rivaled by asparagus.) My best friend Sophia loves artichokes so much she tattooed one on her leg!

We recently planted about 15 artichoke plants in the yard because they're one of the only things the deer won't eat. However, they haven't started really producing yet, so while I wait for my artichokes to grow I decided to share with you some of the history I discovered about artichokes, as well as some of my favorite ways to eat them. Artichokes have a long history as a medicinal food, and for this reason, I'll give you a little bit of that background.

The ancient Greeks and Romans both considered artichokes

a delicacy and a medicine. They were thought of as a "food for the rich" because they combat the illnesses that combat a "rich" lifestyle-excessive fats and alcohol. Studies today have shown that artichokes are excellent for the liver and are also one of the best sources of antioxidants. Because of their bitter nature, artichokes stimulate bile which helps your body break down fats, and helps your liver perform optimally.

Artichokes are also considered an aphrodisiac and have a long history as an "erotic" food. In the 1800's it was forbidden for French women to eat artichokes because they were believed to "warm the genitals" excessively. I also read a juicy story about the "artichoke wars" which happened in the 1920's, when a member of the New York maffia created a monopoly on the artichoke market by purchasing all the artichokes that were shipped to New York from California. He created a produce company and resold all of the artichokes at a higher profit. He then began terrorizing distributors and produce merchants; he even launched an attack on the fields in California- hacking down the plants with machetes in the dead of night! The mayor of New York, Fiorello La Guardia was forced to declare "the sale, display, and possession" of artichokes illegal. He then, however, publicly admitted that he him self loved the vegetable and after only a week he lifted the ban.

Choosing an artichoke

When buying artichokes you should look for fresh,

tightly bound leaves. A trick is to squeeze the artichoke and if it gives a little squeak it means it's fresh. It is very important to buy organic artichokes because conventional artichokes are heavily sprayed. Don't worry about the blackness that sometimes occurs on the leaves- this is just from frost and won't affect the taste in any way. The easiest way to prepare artichokes is steamed. Here is a basic recipe:

To steam an artichoke

First wash the artichokes in cold water. Next trim the end of the stalk (but leave it long if it’s still attached- this is almost as delicious as the heart). Use a sharp knife to cut ½- ¾ of an inch of the top of the artichoke- creating a flat top. This is helpful for steaming, as it allows the steam to more easily penetrate the leaves. It also removes most of the potentially prickly spines. Rub the cut parts of the artichokes with half a lemon. This keeps the artichoke from turning brown.

Place the artichokes in a steamer with water- stems face up. Add quite a bit of water. Add a little squeeze of lemon to the water and bring the water to a boil.

Steam, covered for 20-50 minutes, depending on the size of the artichoke. Keep checking to see if the artichoke is done by either poking the hearts with a sharp knife to see if it’s soft or gently tugging at one of the leaves (be careful not to burn yourself)- if it comes out easily, then the artichoke is done. Always drink your artichoke cooking water! It is delicious and filled with nutrients!

Artichokes can be eaten with a variety of sauces and condiments-different flavored oils, mustard, vinegar, garlic, tahini, etc. One of my favorite ways to eat artichokes is to dip the leaves in a sauce of tahini, olive oil, lemon and garlic. The raw heart and stem can also be eaten in salads.

Garlicky Roasted Baby Artichokes

Baby artichokes are great to eat because they don’t have chokes (the fuzzy inside) so once you remove the tough outer leaves, you can eat the whole thing!

Around 2-3 pounds baby artichokes- pick the ones with the longest stems (these are almost as delicious as the hearts!)

½ a lemon

¼ cup to ½ cup olive oil

10 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped.

1 tablespoon chopped rosemary

salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 400. Boil a large pot of water. Meanwhile, prep the artichokes by trimming any brown off the stems. Cut off the top touch part of the leaves- the top ½ inch or so. Then pull off the touch outer leaves- leaving the soft, lighter green inside. If they are fairly small you can leave them whole- if they are slightly bigger, cut them in half lengthwise Immediately place the trimmed artichokes in a bowl of lemon water to keep them from turning brown.

Simmer the artichokes for about 7-8 minutes, then drain.Toss the artichokes with the rest of the ingredients and put in a baking dish or baking sheet- single layer. Bake for close to 10 minutes.

Globe Artichokes with Angelica’s Sauce

(This recipe is from one of my favorite cookbooks- In Season by Sarah Raven. She proclaims this recipe as her favorite in the book- so while I have never tried it, I’m sure it’s amazing)

1-2 small artichokes or 1 large per person

Sauce:

4 large, hard cooked eggs- shelled removed

1 very large munch of soft green herbs- half flat- leaf parsley and the rest a mix of chives, fennel, dill and or cilantro- or any of these.

2 cans anchovy fillets, drained and finely chopped

1 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

black pepper.

Cook your artichoke in boiling, slightly salted water for 40 minutes (reserve this liquid to drink later). Drain them and give them a squeeze to get out excess water.

Roughly chop the ingredients for the sauce. Mix everything together with the oil and vinegar in a large bowl. You won’t need much salt because of the anchovies but add plenty of pepper. Give everyone an artichoke or two on a plate with enough room for a good dollop of sauce.

According to an Aegean legend, the first artichoke was a beautiful young girl who lived on the island of Zinari. The god, Zeus was visiting his brother Poseidon one day when, as he emerged from the sea, he spied a beautiful young mortal woman. She did not seem frightened, and Zeus seized the opportunity to seduce her. He immediately became so infatuated with the girl, whose name was Cynara that he decided to make her a goddess so that she could be nearer to his home on Mt. Olympus. Cynara was excited at the prospect of being a goddess, and agreed to go live near him. Whenever his wife Hera was away Zeus would go to Cynara. But Cynara soon grew homesick and began sneaking back to the world of mortals for visits. When Zeus discovered she was sneaking away from him, he was furious. Enraged, he hurled her back to earth and transformed her into the plant we know as the artichoke- hence it's latin name Cynara scolymus.

To this day, Artichokes possess a divine, sensuous quality for many. Perhaps this sensuousness is because they are the only vegetable that is actually the bud of a flower. Or maybe it’s because the extra work of eating an artichoke makes them taste that much sweeter. Or maybe it is simply because they have hearts.

Parsnip Celery Root and Apple Gratin

This recipe was inspired by a dish I had at Cornucopia, one of my favorite restaurants in Dublin. The restaurant is a sheltered, warm little hideaway just off Grafton Street and out of the cold bustle of Dublin. It is always packed with a line of people waiting to eat the delicious vegetarian and often vegan menu items, which change from moment to moment throughout the day, depending on what the cooks feel like making.
It was here, when I was 18, visiting Ireland with my mom that I first realized I wanted to have a restaurant.
I made this a couple weeks ago for an Irish party I had and it was definitely the hit of the night. Since then, I've made it a couple more times- The lovely thing about it is that it's very simple.
The cheese gets nice and crispy while the apples provide a sweet balance to the astringent celery root.

I have made this gratin with potatoes instead of the celery root, but I don't think it's quite as good- and celery root is very good for you- cooling and slightly cleansing (which you need to balance out all the butter and cheese!)

If you've never cooked celery root before, don't be intimidated by it's less than attractive appearance! The hairy, gnarled monster can be easily tamed with a good sharp knife. Celery root, which is also called 'celeriac', is available all winter long, as it keeps well.












Look for ones that are free of soft brown spots. Celery root can also be eaten raw- and is typically made into a salad called remoulade- with mayonnaise. It has been eaten in Europe for centuries (it was even mentioned in Homer's Odyssey!). It has tons of Vitamin C, potassium and phosphorus. Oh, and scrub it well before using- because there is often sand and dirt hiding in the roots!

I used an aged Shannon chedder on top, but gruyere would also be delicious!

Recipe:
Serves 6-8 people

4 large Parsnips
6 crisp, tart apples like fuji
1 large, or 2 smaller celery roots
8 cloves of garlic- peeled and sliced thinly
4 tablespoons kerrygold butter cut into teaspoon-sized pieces
1 cup thinly sliced cheese- such as Dubliner, Kerry Gold, aged Chedder, or Gruyere
1 cup bread crumbs (optional)
1/4 cup chopped parsley
fresh thyme- several tablespoons chopped, plus more for garnish
salt, pepper

Begin by boiling a large pot of water. While it is heating, begin peeling the celery root- and then slicing it in 1/4 inch slices. When the water boils, add the celery root. Boil for 7-10 minutes. Meanwhile, peel the parsnips and slice them into 1/4 inch slices or rounds. Check the celery root- it should boil until just barely tender- but take it out with a slotted spoon before it's beginning to crumble- then do the same with the parsnips.
While the parsnips boil core and slice the apples.
Heat the oven to 350

With the par-boiled vegetables and the apples set aside, rub the inside of a large baking dish with a sliced clove of garlic- then butter the dish.
Layer the parsnips, celery root and apple- sprinkling garlic and parsley between the layers. When finished, top with the butter and the rest of the parsley and thyme. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and then add the rest of the garlic.

Then layer the cheese on top. You should have enough to cover it entirely, if you don't, grate more.

Then top the entire thing with the breadcrumbs.

Bake in the oven for at least an hour, or until the cheese is slightly crispy on the edges and the smells overwhelming the kitchen can no longer be resisted!

Meyer Lemon Roasted Beet Salad

To me, beets are the ultimate autumn vegetable. Their sweet earthiness is supreme comfort. I love them roasted with garlic, or boiled and served with butter and cumin, or blood oranges. They are lovely in a breakfast hash with bacon, or raw, grated in salads.

Beets are incredibly healthy, which makes sense intuitively, since their deep color is so similar in appearance to our blood. Since Roman times, beet juice has been considered an aphrodisiac. It is a rich source of the mineral boron, which plays an important role in the production of human sex hormones. From the Middle Ages, beets were used as a treatment for a variety of conditions, especially illnesses relating to digestion and the blood. The greens bring an additional set of nutrients to the plate, most notably beta-carotene, vitamin C, iron and calcium, and are delicious steamed and served with butter.

RECIPE:
serves 12
2 lbs red beets
2 lbs golden beets
salt, pepper
2 meyer lemons, zested and juiced.
3 tbsps sherry
1/4 cup olive oil
6 endive
1/2 lb baby arugula or watercress
fresh chives
dried tarragon
1 cup toasted walnuts
goat cheese or blue cheese- 1 cup or so, crumbled

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut the greens away from the beets, leaving about 1/4 inch of stems. Scrub the beets, dry them, and then rub them in olive oil, salt and pepper and lemon zest. Then place them in the middle of a large sheet of tin foil and close to make a pocket. Place on cookie sheet and bake for about an hour or until tender to a fork. When done, remove skins and chop the beets.

Make the dressing, by whisking together the sherry, lemon juice, olive oil, tarragon and chives.

Pour the dressing over the beets and mix well. Add the chopped endive and arugula or watercress and mix again, gently. Add the nuts and cheese and some fresh ground pepper, and enjoy.

The beets can be roasted a day or two before using, also the nuts can be roasted before hand. Even the dressing could be made a day ahead if you were really trying to be efficient.

Mashed Potatoes and Celery Root with Crispy Leeks

This is the first of a few Thanksgiving recipes that I will post, so you can begin thinking about the feast ahead (oooooo it's so exciting!)




What makes this recipe so unique is the use of ghee instead of butter. Ghee is easier to digest than butter because it has no lactose in it, which means that the butter-belly syndrome typical of thanksgiving will be minimized. And it's just so delicious! Here the tartness of the creme fraiche balance its rich sweetness.

I leave the skin on my mashed potatoes because it's nutritious, and I think delicious, but you're more than welcome to peel the potatoes if you'd prefer.

Celery root is that odd hairy looking lump you'll see in the produce section- it looks like the most unappetizing thing ever, but it's really quite delicious, and the crisp vibrancy lends itself well to the creaminess of the potatoes.

The type of potatoes you use matters! Some are more flaky and dry, others have thicker skins. The best for mashing are russets and Yukon gold.


RECIPE:

3 Celery roots
4 lbs potatoes
1 tbsp salt
5 tbsps ghee
1/3 cup creme fraiche
1/4 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup minced chives or parsley
black pepper
2 leeks
several tbsps safflower oil or ghee for frying

Peel the celery root- making sure to remove all the fibrous parts. Cut the potatoes and the celery into 1 inch pieces. Bring to a boil in a large pot of water. Add salt and cook until the vegetables are soft (about 10 min).

Meanwhile, chop the leeks into 2 inch logs- then chop lengthwise- creating thin strips. Heat the oil in a small pan. Add the leeks and fry less than a minute until golden. Use a fork or slotted spoon and drain the leeks on paper towels.

Drain the soft, cooked vegetables. In a large bowl (or in the same pot), mash the vegetables with a fork or masher. Add the ghee, creme fraiche. Mash thoroughly. Add the cream only if you'd like the potatoes a little creamier. Add salt, herbs and fresh ground pepper to taste- mix thoroughly.

Top with the crispy leeks.

Morning Miso

According to Japanese mythology, miso is a gift to mankind from the gods to assure lasting health, longevity, and happiness.

Six months ago I began eating soup for breakfast in an in an effort to solve the digestive problems I'd been having. As soon as I started eating soup in the morning, all my problems went away. Having revolved around elaborate breakfasts of eggs and grains for most of my life, this was a huge change for me, but since the first day of trying miso for breakfast, I haven't gone back. Nothing makes me feel as good as miso soup in the morning. From an Ayurvedic perspective, this makes sense, since agni (one's digestive fire) is generally small in the morning and needs to be "stoked" with a small, easily digested meal that acts as kindling to the fire.

The idea of soup in the morning may not sound very appealing, but I encourage you to try it and see how you feel. To most people (at least in the US), breakfasts are usually sweet (from the ayurvedic perspective, this including things like toast, cereal etc.) Much of the world eats a savory breakfasts consisting of mostly vegetables. Even if you don't want to give up pancakes and eggs, you can still make this soup any time- it's quick and versatile and so delicious. This soup only takes about 10 minutes to make and can be made with almost any vegetables you have on hand.

Miso is a food that has been eaten for centuries in Japan. It has is usually made from soybeans and either rice or barley, which is then mixed with seasalt and the koji culture, but can also be made from various other grains and legumes. Unpasteurized miso is a living food that is filled with digestive enzymes which ward off harmful organisms, creating a healthy digestive system.

I use white miso paste because it has a mellower, softer quality than the darker pastes, but experiment and see which ones you like. Miso made from garbanzo beans, is especially good as well. But don't use the instant miso packets, because miso is a living, fermented food and it loses most of its healthful qualities in the dried form. Many health food stores sell miso in bulk, but make sure it is unpasteurized and organic. One of the best makers is South River Miso.

This can be made with almost any vegetables you desire. Every morning the soup I make is completely different from the morning before. I often find that the fewer vegetables the better. Also, experiment with different ways of chopping the vegetables as well. To the Japanese, in order to completely nourish you, food needs to be beautiful as well as delicious. If it's not beautiful, you will never feel "full". I use the moments chopping the vegetables as a sort of meditation. And I always try to leave enough time to sit down and eat in a peaceful way. Here is just one possible version- this serves two.

RECIPE:
1 tbsp ghee or olive oil
1/2 a leek
1 carrot
1 stalk celery
1/4 cup wakame soaked
1/2 avocado for garnish
miso (the amount varies depending on the strength of the miso. Usually its about 1 tsp- 1 tbsp per serving).
3 cups water or vegetable stock
cilantro for garnish
a dash of black sesame seeds

Put the wakame in water to soak for a few minutes. Heat the oil or ghee and add the leeks (meanwhile chop the other vegetables). Add the rest of the vegetables and cook a few minutes more. Add the water or stock and wakame and cook about 8 minutes more, or until the vegetables are soft.

Then in a small bowl, mix the miso and a small bit of the warm broth, stir with a spoon until the paste dissolves, adding more liquid if necessary. Add the rest of the soup to the miso. (boiling miso kills the beneficial enzymes.) Top the soup with the avocado, cilantro and sesame seeds and enjoy.

I believe that miso belongs to the highest class of medicines, those which help prevent disease and strengthen the body through continued usage.... Some people speak of miso as a condiment, but miso brings out the flavor and nutritional value in all foods and helps the body digest and assimilate whatever we eat... —Dr. Shinichiro Akizuki,

Ginger-Miso Roasted Kabocha Squash

I bought a beautiful kabocha squash at the market on Sunday because as I stood looking at all of the various types of squash- not exactly knowing the difference between any of them, or even knowing if I wanted to buy one, a cute man walked by and said "Get a kabocha".

So I did. And was pleasantly surprised by how good it was. It has dense, delicious orange flesh.

I came across an article on winter squash in Sunset magazine and got excited to try their version of this recipe... needless to say, I changed a few things.

I bake the squash extra long so it gets a little crispy on the edges and almost caramelizes.

Recipe:

1/3 cup white miso
5-in. piece fresh ginger, grated
1/2 cup sherry or sake
6 tablespoons oil (I used a mix of red palm, ghee, and olive oil
4 tablespoons rice vinegar
4 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar
1 kabocha squash, seeded and cut into 1/4-in. slices

toasted sesame oil

Oven to 375°. Whisk all the ingredients minus the squash and sesame oil together... then arrange the squash on a baking sheet- drizzle about half of the sauce over the slices and turn them so they are entirely covered.

Bake for about 15 minutes, then brush slices with remaining sauce (you will have some left over) and cook until tender when thick edges are pierced with a fork, about 10 to 15 more minutes.

Drizzle with the sesame oil (tahini might be good also)

enjoy!