After weeks of warm sun, winter has returned. This recipe was the result of an effort to stir up warmth and sweetness to combat the bitter cold. The result was this: a blend of aphrodisiacs, rich spices and sweet, sexy figs- quite an appropriate Valentine delight.
For me, Moroccan food reigns above all else; it is my absolute favorite- I love the marriage of complex flavors- saffron, almonds, quinces, paprika, dates, tender meat, rich broths, preserved lemons, green olives, fresh mint, etc.
Saffron is one of the magic elements of Moroccan cooking. In fact, it's one of the most magical things we have going for us, as far as I'm concerned. After all, eating the delicate reproductive organs of a beautiful, violet flower!? How hot is that?
Saffron has a long history as a pigment, a food and a medicine. In Iran, saffron pigments have been found that date back 50,000 years! In ancient Persia saffron was used as a remedy against melancholy and, as such, was offered to divinities, woven into fabrics, strewn across beds, and added to tea. To me, the sweet honey, hay-like scent and the vibrant yellow-orange color are as close to pure sunshine as you can get.
Nicholas Culpepper, the famous, early English herbalist describes saffron as "an herb of the sun...let not above ten grains be given at one time, for the sun, which is the fountain of light, may dazzel the eyes and make them blind". Interestingly, modern science is finding that saffron may stop blindness by protecting the eyes from the direct effects of bright light and retinal stress as well as slowing down macular degeneration. Additionally modern science is confirming the ancient use of saffron as an immune stimulator, reproductive regulator, and general curative.
Buddhist monks adopted saffron-colored robes (died with less-costly turmeric, but meant to invoke the nature of saffron) as a continuation of the practice of honoring deities with this divine substance.
And if all of that doesn't impress you, ponder the idea that one pound of saffron requires 50,000-75,000 flowers!
Another magic ingredient of Moroccan food is preserved lemons. Their salty sourness so wonderfully accents the richness of the meat and the sweetness of the dried fruit. Fortunately they are easy to make- you simply pack fresh lemons with salt and let sit for a month or so, until they are ready to be eaten- peel and all. I definitely recommend using Meyer lemons as their peel is much sweeter and more flavorful. A good recipe is located in Alice Water's book, Chez Panisse Fruit. The recipe can be found here.1 lb beef stew meat, cut into 1 inch cubes
1 cup dry red wine, Burgundy or such4 cloves of minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt
black pepper
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 1/2 cups butternut squash- peeled and cut into 1 inch cubes
1-2 carrots cubed
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
2 teaspoons paprika
1 cup beef broth
1/2 cup dried figs, halved
1/3 cup raisins
1-2 preserved lemons, cut in quarters
Cilantro and or pine nuts to garnish.
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
2 teaspoons paprika
1 cup beef broth
1/2 cup dried figs, halved
1/3 cup raisins
1-2 preserved lemons, cut in quarters
Cilantro and or pine nuts to garnish.
PREPARATION:
Marinate the beef for several hours or preferably over night in the wine and garlic and salt and pepper.
Drain the meat and pat dry, but reserve the wine.
Heat a large, heavy-bottomed pot over high heat. Add one tablespoon of the coconut oil or butter. When very hot, add the meat, in batches if needed (so as to only have a single layer of un-crowded meat in the pan-otherwise the meat will steam, instead of brown). Brown each side of the beef- until it develops a handsome crust of brown- a few minutes for each batch. Remove the meat from the pot.
Add the rest of the oil or butter to the pan, reduce the heat to medium-high. Add the onions, carrots, and squash to the pan. Cook 10 minutes or so. Add the spices and cook another minute more to release their flavor.
Then add the wine and beef broth to the pot. Bring to a boil then turn down to the lowest possible heat. Simmer 1 1/2 hours or so with a tight fitting lid. Then add the preserved lemon, figs and raisins- simmer another 1/2 hour. Garnish with pine nuts and/or cilantro. Serve with couscous or quinoa.
Makes 4 hearty servings of magic to take away your melancholy.
